Completely Finished Colette Coat!

When last I posted pictures of the Colette Coat, I only had to finish the sleeves and add some extra top-stitching to keep the front facings from curling. But while finishing up the sleeves my inner muse had other ideas.

I knew I needed some way to fasten the front so I picked up some copper/gold chain and matching hooks while at Jo-Ann Fabrics to string across from button to button (with hooks on opposite sides so it looks more balanced) and came up with this:

Front detail of the Colette Coat!

Back chain detail of the Colette Coat!

Once I finished the front closure I had a lot of chain left. So, I went through my jewelry making and embroidery supplies and found large gold coloured rings and gold tone beads. I've seen coats with buttons and chains across the backs as decoration but I didn't have any extra buttons that matched the ones already on there. So, I strung the chains on rings to fit across the side back seams and then attached the rings to the gold tone beads (this is because the thread is more likely to slip through the butted ends of the ring so sewing beads to the seams is better for long term wear) and sewed the beads into to the back side seams.

Chain tassel on the button of the Colette Coat!

When I finished that I still had some short lengths of chain left. So I divided them into two tassels, attached small gold rings on the end of each and attached them to the buttons on the tails.

Colette Coat sleeves!

Finally, I finished up the sleeves that my friend wanted to be reversable and cuffed. I only had limited fabric to use as we hadn't originally planned on making them so I got creative. The red side of the sleeve fit the standard sleeve pattern with no room for a cuff while the stripe side had 5 extra inches in length.

So, I cut them out and sewed them together (right sides together then turned with the sleeve cap top-stitched closed) and pressed the sleeves so when it is red fabric out the sleeves are full length with a striped cuff. With the striped fabric out, the sleeves are just below elbow length with a deep red cuff. Then I put two grommets in the top of the sleeve (matching the two that are hiding under the sleeve cap) and laced them together with red leather.

And the Colette Coat is now officially done! Once it's mailed to my friend who commissioned it, I'll post pictures of her entire outfit as the Ringmaster Colette Nagin from the Cirque de la Vapeur.

1884 Collapsible Wire Bustle Tutorial

1884 Collapsible Wire Bustle

This is an imitation of an 1884 collapsible wire bustle based on a bustle pictured in the Victoria and Albert Collection: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73542/bustle-the-new-phantom

Materials: 7 wire coat hangers, soldering iron and lead-free solder, copper wire, 1 package of woven edge seam binding (or ribbon), scrap bias tape (enough to go around your waist and a bit more).

First, untwist 5 of the coat hangers and form them into arcs. Mine were approximately 15 inches wide and 12 inches high, which made fit a few inches smaller than the back of my hips.

Untwist another coat hanger and bend it into a straight line, with rings at the end that are turned upwards.

One at a time, bend the ends of the arcs into loops thread them through the two rings on the straight coat hanger. It should look something like the picture to the left.

To secure the arcs to the straight piece, wrap copper wire around the ends of the loops to hold it closed. Then solder over the copper wire to completely secure the loop closed, as the picture below shows. (An example of the un-soldered copper wrapping can be seen on the table in the picture. It was my practice piece before I wrapped the wire arcs.
Then do this for all of the arcs of wire until they are all attached to the "hinge piece." I covered the soldered joints with electrical tape to make sure that they wouldn't damage the petticoat, but it is not necessary if the solder joints are neat.
Use the last coat hanger to create the waistband of the bustle. I measured it to a few inches smaller than my waist (as I'll be wearing a corset with my dress) and made soldered loops on the ends as well. Sew along the very edge of the bias tape in a small zig-zag stitch and slide this tube over the coat hanger. Attach two lengths of sturdy cord onto these loops so it can be tied around the waist to the size needed.
To attach the arcs to the waistband, use copper wire to create small loops on the top sides of the top arc and solder them in place. Then loop woven edge seam binding around the arc, through the loop and around the waistband. Sew these into place at the length needed to hold the bustle where it should fall. Also, for extra stability, sew loops of seam binding from the hinge piece to the waistband.
Then sew the seam binding from arc to arc to hold them in place at the right distance from each other. I did three rows of seam binding to keep them in place.
The result is quite sturdy, which is necessary as it'll need to hold about 5 pounds of skirts, and it collapses and opens quite easily.
The picture below is how my bustle came out!



April 5, 2013:
I am currently working on a prototype of a spring hinged collapsible wire bustle of this kind to support heavier skirts. Once I complete and test it, I'll post a link to the new tutorial here!