Tree of Gondor Coat Construction: Part 4

With the back panel finally done, it was time for the easy part: constructing the jacket. I followed the directions for view C, Simplicity 3628 to make up the coat with very few changes:

First, I didn't like how the  pockets looked after I basted them in place. They broke up the lengthening effect of the princess seams and just looked kind of strange. So I took them off.

Second, the instructions for top-stitching on the collar were different from the picture on the front of the pattern. The picture clearly shows top-stitching that follows the curved top line of the collar, however the directions called for just horizontal spaced lines, ignoring the front curve. I ended up making the collar look like the picture as it echoed the curves in the rest of the jacket.

Top-stitching details.

Finally, the collar piece didn't ease into place very cleanly. I'm not sure if it was the pattern, my cutting or the materials I used, but I was able to solve the problem by gathering at the center back of the neck. And I actually like the effect it has.

Gathering at the back of the collar.

Here are a few more details of the coat:

Top-stitched sleeves.
I tried to very cleanly pleat the tops of the shoulders.

To close the jacket I used several silver coat hooks. And, to go along with the vaguely historical/Victorian feel, I added period cord buttons from LaMode for decoration on the front.

Pretty Buttons!

Here is the completed coat, front and back!

Front of the coat.

Back of the coat.

Looking back at the coat, there are a few things I would do differently:
  • I would use sturdier thread for top-stitching. My usual white Guttermann thread had some issues and snapped a few times. Really it looks just fine, but I notice where I had to backstitch to reconnect the thread.
  • I would have given myself a bit of extra room through the shoulders of the jacket. When I made a mock-up and tried on the shell it flexed fine, until I put the lining in. I believe this was due to the slight stretch of the micro-suede compared to the lack of stretch in the cotton twill. I made this coat to be worn with a t-shirt, so it was meant to be fitted, but the extra inch for movement would have been nice.
  • Finally, I would have given the coat some pockets. Maybe pockets inserted in the seam would have worked, or just pockets inside the lining, but I do prefer to have clothing with just enough room for a wallet or cellphone. 

 I hope you enjoyed following along with the construction of my Tree of Gondor coat!
 The end! :)


Roo said...

You are so talented! Wow. What a beautiful coat.

Anonymous said...

Dear Motley Maker,

You are incredibly talented and really, incredibly beautiful. I look forward to seeing more of you incredible work on this blog. :D

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